North Sikkim
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North Sikkim is the largest of the four districts of Sikkim and is also one of
the lowest populated regions in the state. Most of the population lives
around Mangan, the district headquarters which is about 610 m above sea
level and is known as the Cardamom Capital of the world. The people of
North Sikkim are mainly of Nepali descent. Other ethnic groups include the
Lepcha and Bhutia communities. Nepali is the most widely spoken language
in the district.

The region has many power projects and enjoys almost uninterrupted
electricity. The steep slopes and numerous lakes on the higher reaches
provide ideal conditions for the generation of hydro-electric power. Another
prominent effect of the steepness of the valleys is the large number of
landslides, most of them caused either by the melting snow beds on top of
the mountains or by erosion from the rains. The frequent landslides also
mean the roads are often in bad condition.

The landscape is mountainous with dense vegetation all the way up to the
alpine altitude where it thins out into desert scrub towards the Northern
Tundra. Temperatures range from about 25°C to below - 40°C in the
extreme high reaches (over 6000 m). Kanchenjanga, straddling the eastern
border of Nepal, is the highest peak in the region and the third highest in
the world at over 8000 m.

The district is also home to the Himalayan Red Panda which is the pride of
Sikkim. It is not a real Panda Bear as the name suggests but belongs to the
Raccoon family and is generally found between heights of 2000 and 4000
m. It is approximately 2 ft long, has a triangular shaped face with a stripe on
its cheek, with red fur and black eyes. It has a sprinkling of white on its back
and chest. The tail is bushy, black or brown in color and long like that of a
skunk. They generally live in treetops.

Special permits are needed to visit any part of North Sikkim beyond
Mangan. Officially this area can only be visited only as part of an organized
tour. See the Mangan section for more information on this.


Mangan

The sleepy town of Mangan is the district headquarters of North Sikkim.
Located approximately 65 kms from Gangtok it is the gateway to the
northern towns of Sikkim such as Yumthang, Chungthang, Lachung and
Lachen. There are one or two small guesthouses in mangan providing
budget accommodation.

Mangan is as far north as you can travel in Sikkim without a special permit.
Officially,  to travel further north you must arrange a tour through one of the
many tour operators in Gangtok. They will arrange the permits, guides,
transportation and accommodation but all charge unnecessarily high prices.
These tour operators will claim that booking a tour is the only way to visit
the far north of Sikkim. This not entirely true. There is a small possibility that
you can arrange your trip in Mangan for a much more reasonable price.
First ask around the village to find yourself a guide. Guides are mandatory
for the trip north. With the help of your guide it may be possible to arrange
your permit at the police office, located a short walk uphill from Mangan.
There are no guarantees that you will be granted the permit but for those
looking to visit the North of Sikkim and still stay in budget it is worth a try.

The region of Mangan is famous for the Phensong and Phodong
Monasteries, the latter being considered one of the six main monasteries of
Sikkim. Phodong Monastery, which belongs to the Kargyupa Sect, is
situated about a kilometre uphill from the North Sikkim Highway. The
monastery was built in the 18th century by the Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal.
The main annual puja is performed on the 28th and 29th day of the 10th
month of the Tibetan calendar, when the religious Chaams or dances are
performed. Another kilometre uphill from Phodong Monastery on the same
road is the Labrang Monastery which was built about one hundred years
later and belongs to the Nyingmapa sect. Just below the road between
Phodong and Labrang Monasteries are the ruins of the third capital of
Sikkim, Tumlong. In the beginning of the 19th century, the capital of Sikkim
was shifted from Rabdanste to Tumlong which then remained the capital for
almost ninety years. There are many buses plying on the route on which
Phodong lies. Taxis are also available to Phodong from Gangtok. Budget
accommodation is available at Phodong Bazar.

Singhik is a small picturesque hamlet on the North Sikkim Highway located
2 km from Mangan. The place offers one of the most spectacular and
closest views of Kunchenjunga and its ranges. The area, with forested hills
and tumbling mountain streams also has a number of interesting short
nature trails along the higher ridges of the surrounding hills. A half hour
uphill walk takes you to the ancient Singhik monastery. There is a Tourist
lodge in Singhik providing accommodation.

Transport all jeeps leaving from the main road. to Gangtok Rs 80, 65 km
journey time 2 or 3 hours. When you arrange your own way North,
remember you need a permit.


Chungthang

Situated 95 km from Gangtok, at an altitude of 1700 m, the small town of
Chungthang is one of the main stop off points on the long road to
Yumthang. Chungthang lies on the confluence of two rivers, the Lachen
and Lachung Chu, and the starting point of river Teesta. Here the road
from Gangtok divides, one road leading towards the northeast via Lachung
(23 km) up to Yumthang and the other one running via Lachen (29 km)
further north up to Thangu, Gurudongmar and Tso-Lamu Lake on the
Tibetan border.

At Chungthang is a rock on which, according to legend, Guru
Padmasambhava rested and the imprint on it is said to be his footmark.
Next to the rock there is a small stretch of land where rice is grown. This is
very unusual in this area where the conditions which are not suitable to the
growth of this crop. It is said that Guru Padmasambhava sprinkled a handful
of grain on this spot and paddy has grown here ever since.


Lachung - Small Pass
Situated 116 km from Gangtok at an altitude of 2700 m, Lachung is Bhutia
village with a unique local and traditional self-government body called the
Zumsa. The Lachung villagers, known as Lachungpas, have managed to
retain their unique culture and tradition. The Lachung monastery on the
hillside opposite the highway is a focal point of all religious functions of the
local inhabitants.

The village, spread out on either side of Lachung Chu River, is surrounded
by mountain peaks which remain snow clad for most of the year. The road
to Lachung passes through some of the most beautiful but difficult terrain in
sikkim full of picturesque waterfalls and great views. Lachung provides a
base for the travellers visiting the Yumthang Valley, 25 km away. The
region has been opened to tourists only recently and the tourism
infrastructure here is only basic. There are a few small hotels with basic
facilities.

Yumthang Valley

25 kms from Lachung, at an altitude of 3600 m, lies Yumthang
Valley, also called the Valley of Flowers. Yumthang is located on a
flat valley near the tree line. During the flowering season in April
and May the valley is full of vivid colours, as a variety of
Rhododendrons, chimals and blue poppies bloom. From
November to March there is usually snow.

Yumthang Valley is also well known for its hot springs. Rich in
sulphur, these springs are believed to have miraculous healing
powers. The springs are located a few hundred yards from the
road and across a pedestrian bridge on the River Lachung. For
the convenience of bathers a hut with two pools has been
constructed. Hot water rich in sulphur, emanates from a spring just
behind the hut and is diverted into the pools.

Yumthang itself has no population and the few yak herders around
are nomadic. There is no accommodation available at the valley.
Visitors may stay at Lachung from where the valley is about an
hours drive.


Lachen - Big Pass

Lachung's sister village Lachen was only opened to tourists in the
year 2000. Situated at an altitude of 2735 m and a good 6 hours
drive from Gangtok along the North Sikkim highway, Lachen
stands on a grassy flat land separated by deep gorges from the
pine clad mountains. The village comprises nearly 150 houses,
formerly inhabited only in winters by the owners who spend the
summers on the alpine pastures along the Tibet border tending to
their herds of yaks. The trekking route to the Green Lake at 4600
m in Kunchanjungha National Park originates from Lachen. It is
also the base from where one can visit Chopta valley and
Gurudongma lake. There are a few hotels with basic facilities in
Lachen.


Thangu

The route from Lachen continues gradually upwards for 28 kms
along the mountain ridge to Thangu, at an altitude of nearly 4000
m. During the months of May and June the valley is carpeted with
alpine flowers which are replaced by snow from October to March.
A small picturesque hamlet with a tiny population, Thangu has
recently developed a few accommodations with basic facilities.
Situated on the high alpine plateau, Thangu provides the base for
trekking routes to Chopta valley and Muguthang.


Chopta Valley

From Thangu it is only a 20 minute drive to Chopta Valley. The
valley has breathtaking alpine scenery with lofty snow capped
peaks, meandering rivers and alpine flowers that bloom in June
and July. The valley is one of the few accessible places in Sikkim
where you can walk over the frozen rivers. A trek through Chopta
valley leads to Muguthang valley, a vast flat pasture criss-crossed
by numerous snow-fed streams. The high alpine valley is only
inhabitable for a few rare high altitude animals, although some
nomadic tribes from Tibet occasionally settle here for food and for
grazing their yaks.

Gurudongmar Lake is situated beyond the Chopta Valley, at an
altitude of over 5000 m. The lake is the largest and possibly the
highest in Sikkim. It is also a holy lake and many pilgrims visit this
place every year.